Go Bottom

Jump to The Bonnie Ref: Hypertext Junkie's Illustrated Field Guide

The Bonnie Maintenance Log

Winter 2018 Tear-Down

30 May 2018

Loctite used on:

  • Kickstart ratchet nut
  • Gearbox sprocket nut
  • Clutch nut
  • Rotor nut
  • Trapdoor screw at 12 o'clock (stripped - put loctite on screw & black sealer over head)

Replacement & Service (76,606.7 miles)

  • Gearbox
    • Thrust washers
    • Both layshaft bearings
    • Locating peg for DS layshaft bearing
    • Both mainshaft bearings
    • Kickstart ratchet nut
    • Kickstart ratchet nut tab washer
  • Transmission
    • Gearbox sprocket oil seal
    • Gearbox sprocket
    • Gearbox sprocket nut
    • Clutch nut
    • Primary chain
    • Rotor nut tab washer
    • Final drive chain
    • Pri chain case gasket
    • Trap door screws (bad ones)
    • Primary chain tensioner abutment
    • Primary chain tensioner blade
    • Alternator lead rubber grommet
  • Engine
    • Engine sprocket
    • DS crankshaft oil bearing
    • Oil pipe junction block gasket
    • Breather extension pipe
    • TS intake pushrod
    • Rocker box gaskets
  • Misc & Frame
    • Speedometer (repair)
    • Speedometer cable
    • Chain guard
    • Oil tank rubber mounting grommet
    • Oil tank & batter holder rubber spigots (4)
    • Front fork gaitors (October)
    • Ignition coil (October)
  • Engine lube system
    • Oil pipe junction block gasket
    • All oil lines
  • Fuel system
    • All gas lines
    • Carburettor mounting o-rings
    • Throttle cables
    • Idle & pilot screw o-rings

March 2, 2018

Pulled the engine out of the frame three days ago. Used a floor jack to keep the engine suspended while I removed the front and bottom engine mounts and then wrapped my arms around it and pulled it out from the left side with an upward motion, then a tilt towards myself, and then up and out.

Have been cleaning up and inspecting everything. Findings thus far (not including all the bronze in the gearbox):

  • Primary chain needs replacing, as well as the slipper, which is gouged pretty deeply.
  • The gearbox sprocket teeth don't look worn, but they are starting to hook (!)
  • A witness mark at two o'clock behind the gearbox sprocket
  • Layshaft low gear bush is .007" under spec

Andy Hansen is shipping back my repaired speedometer. I asked him if I'd over-lubed it or anything like that. His reply:
"What had failed on your speedo was the drag disk. It is an aluminum disk that is captured by the magnetic field and transfers the motion to the pointer. The shaft through the drag disk had become loose. It appears I had used a new drag disk originally and this was simply a part failure.
I advise against using oil on a cable and recommend grease because the oil can "corkscrew" its way up the inner cable and into the instrument. However, your instrument was clean and dry inside with no evidence of oil entering it."

January 25, 2018

Pulled off gb outer cover and found lots of bronze 4th & 5th photos down).

Oil resevoir and oil lines removed.

Removing oil bottle - remove battery carrier and push resevoir towards DS before twisting and removing.

Scheduled Maintenance & Repairs

  • Measure distance between fork legs to verify: 6 1/2" for pre-'69 yokes ("triple tree and fork crown") or 6-3/4" for '69 and later
  • Repair speedometer ✔
  • Repair seat tear
  • Repack (replace?) steering race balls
  • Replace battery
  • Clean carbs (TS cylinder balky startup) ✔
  • Replace high tension wires
  • Replace throttle cables ✔
  • Replace fuel lines ✔
  • Repair oil tank dent ✔
  • Replace all oil lines ✔
  • Inspect primary chain case/adjust pressure plate ✔
  • Re-seal alternator wires ✔
  • Change fork oil ✔
  • Grease swing arm ✔
  • De-glaze front brake drum/Adjust front brake shoes

End of Season 2017

9 November 2017

76,606.7 miles

19 October 2017

76,124 miles

Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter

Cleaned and lubed chain

Discovered source of leaking fuel - the screws holding on both float bowls were so loose that gasoline was oozing out. Getting much better gas mileage now and also better starts.

Also discovered that although both carb slides were lifting simultaneously, the left slide was starting from higher. After resetting and rebalancing them from scratch the Bonnie is running superbly - silky-smooth acceleration and deceleration, more power, and an exhaust tone that is raw and ripping and smoothly melodious at the same time.

Primary chain oil:

  • Drained 300ml old oil
  • Added 330ml new oil

7 October 2017

75,943 miles

Received and installed two 6v. Taiwanese ignition coils. Bonnie started on first kick and ran fine on both cylinders. But I need to redo the carbs after I fidgeted with them on the trip.

2 October 2017

Broke down in Montpelier, trying to get back home from Rutland with right cylinder misfiring. New plug didn't help. Right cylinder ran on left cylinder plug lead so my diagnosis was ignition coil.

LA drove down in the truck and hauled me and the Bonnie back home.

Apart from the time I didn't replace the master link clip and had to be towed home from Stanstead this is the first time that Bonnie left me on the road. Not bad for 71,000+ miles.

1 October 2017

75,633 miles

In advance of second trip to Green Mountains:

Synced carbs, adjusted valves, and checked ignition timing.

DS exhaust valve has been on the wide side all summer and I got it back in the same ballpark as the TS. The ignition timing was right on.

12 September 2017

74,955 miles

Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter

Cleaned and lubed chain

10 July 2017

74,012 miles

Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter

3 June 2017

Watched a Lunmad youtube on adjusting ignition timing and valve clearance this morning. Both threw me for a loop, had me thinking I'd been doing all wrong all this time. Certainly a plausible posit.

The Ignition timing mixup turned on Lunmad's timing mark representing TDC while Bonnie's represents 38 degrees BTDC.

The valve clearance thing -

Lunmad opens DS Intake valve (rocker all the way down) and then adjusts the DS Exhaust valve clearance. Etc.

When I adjust DS Exhaust valve clearance, I open the TS exhaust valve (rocker down).

After my initial panic I realized they must be the same thing, mechanically speaking.

But after I re-adjusted clearance, Bonnie wouldn't start. Was it the valves? Or was it the sooty spark plugs that I wired brushed and blew out by mouth? I dunno.

I removed tank and checked all clearances. All ok except the DS exhaust - which seemed a bit tight. I readjusted it and the Bonnie started, stubbornly. By the time I got to the bottom of the driveway and turned towards Parkes, it was firing on one cylinder. I turned around but then the other cylinder started firing until it seemed ok. Ran fine for a 40 mile run and started fine.

2 June 2017

Service (73,011 miles)

  • Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter
  • Greased swing arm (took a LOT of grease!)
  • Greased speedo gear unit
  • Greased front brake pivots (not 100% sure any went in)
  • Checked valves
  • Closed timing side intake valve clearance a little bit
  • Closed timing side exhaust valve clearnce a little bit
  • Checked timing (spot on)
  • Synchronized carb slides (right was rising first)
  • New rear K70 tire with new tube and new rim strip
  • Checked chain stretch - only 3/8" over 104 pivots
  • Cleaned and lubed chain
  • Removed rear brake shoes from drum and de-greased (chain lube oil)

Finally found the source of my downshift 'buzzxx' noise tank noise. It was the oil pipe to the rockers. It was too proud of the frame and evidently vibrated against the insde of the frame even though it left no witness marks that I could see. Hmm. Not saying much these days, I need glasses! I tie-wrapped it closer to, but not touching the frame and it banished the buzz!

Beginning of Season 2017

5 May 2017

72,200 miles.

First ride of the season.

Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter

Winter/Spring 2016 Gearbox Tear-Downs

After April and June 2016 teardowns, Bonnie is using the following gearbox components:

  • Gearchange quadrant from Baxter (fixed downshifting problem)
  • Gearchange quadrant plungers from Baxter (outer gearbox cover)
  • Gearchange quadrant plunger springs from Baxter
  • Guide plate from SRM 2015 order
  • Camplate from SRM 2015 order
  • Original camplate rollers (new ones from Baxter on hand)
  • Mainshaft from Baxter
  • Mainshaft ball journal bearing 57-0448 [Ref#15 Fig.8] from Baxter
  • Layshaft closed end needle roller bearing 57-1606 TIMKEN M11121 [Ref#11 Fig.7] from Baxter
  • Various and sundry oil seals, nuts, tab washers, etc. renewed

End of Season 2016

22 November 2016

72,190 miles

Snow and salt.

August 11, 2016

71,000 miles

Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter

July 10, 2016

69,950 miles

Service

  • Retorque head bolts
  • Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter
  • Sync carbs
  • Adj valves
  • Clean, lubricate, and adj chain
June 27, 2016

69,600 miles

Eureka!

Still working on jumping out of gear problem. Pulled off gb outer cover and replaced gearshift quadrant with new unit from Baxter. Before removing original I made a mark on the case at the furthest extent of down-shift traval. As soon as the new quadrant was in I could see that in downshift it went about 3/32" further than the original and I knew I was onto something good.

After putting everything back together, a quick test ride confirmed that the problem was gone - downshifting is crisp and clean. No more downshift malfunctions, and first gear no longer pops into neutral when descending the steep driveway hill in gear.

Victory! After two years.

June 25, 2016

69,575 miles

Persistant oil leak, pooling on top of gearbox. Could be a) chaincase port for alternator wires, b) PRTs, c) that base gasket with 'just a tiny tear' I used during winter reassembly.

Talcum powder took me straight to the culprit base gasket. First base gasket leak ever. Will I ever use a torn gasket again? Anywhere?

Dismantled the top end and replaced the cylinder base gasket, leak cured.

Base and rocker box gaskets were from Baxter and labeled "Coventry Spares". I don't think these are the highly praised "Covseal" rocker box gaskets, but maybe.

Both base and rocker gaskets had wire in them. I've been more and more inclined to use paper gaskets without wires, so it will be interesting to see how well these hold up.

[February 2018, 76,606 miles: have to remove rocker boxes to take engine out of the frame for machine work (gearbox thrust washer locating peg & new roller bearings/seals/etc. After 7,000 miles the rocker boxes were still 100% leak-free (as were the PRTs)]

February 2016

Winter Service & Repairs (68,876 miles)

  • .100" overbore
  • New pistons and rings
  • New intake valves
  • New mainshaft (Baxter)
  • New 57-1606 closed end needle roller bearing (layshaft, high gear end)
  • New 57-0448 high gear bearing
  • Etc.

End of Season 2015

68,876 miles

November 15, 2015

68,876 miles

September 15, 2015

67,400 miles

New front and rear tires with new inner tubes (all from BikeBandit ($174 total).

Mounted by Jeff Price, Cycles Unlimited Newport

September 12, 2015

67,100 miles

Service

  • Checked valve clearance and found it a bit wide - adjusted.
  • Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter
  • Cleaned chain
  • Re-set synchronization of carb cables

September 5, 2015

Removed outer gearbox outer cover and put back the original pawls and guide plate. Goes into first gear everytime from a cold start now, but on the road it still haings up in neutral when downshifting to first gear and pops out of first gear after that.

As bad as it is, this configuration seems the best after last winter's teardown.

September 3, 2015

Removed outer gearbox and put the new pawls back into the gearchanging quadrant. This is the second time I've put them in and the result was the worst gear shifting since the first time I put it all together last spring. Problem getting into first gear nearly every time, and popping out of gear - 1st 2nd and even 3rd.

August 25, 2015

Re-checked timing - still ok.

August 17, 2015

Checked ignition timing and found it was very retarded. Re-adjusted.

August 11, 2015

66,200

Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter

June 2 2015

65,740 miles

New drive chain - D.I.D. from Bonneville shop.

Beginning of Season 2015

65,120 miles.

All lubricants changed after completion of winter work

Winter 2015 Tear-down (65,120 miles)

Machining services by North Country Engineering

  • Transmission
    • Entire clutch center assembly (center, covers, spyder, rubbers)
    • Clutch hub (old one had turned on mainshft)
    • Gearbox sprocket
    • 58T duplex clutch sprocket
    • Engine sprocket
    • Primary chain
    • Drive chain
    • Clutch plates, steel and friction
    • Thrust washer
    • Crankcase oil seal
  • Wiring
    • Entirely new wiring - custom harness
  • Gearbox overhaul
    • Mainshaft (SRM)
    • All bushings (except kickstart shaft)
    • Mainshaft and layshaft bearings in gearbox inner cover
    • Layshaft thrust washers
    • Camplate (inner gearbox cover)
    • Camplate rollers
    • Index plunger and spring (MAPCycle yellow dot)
    • Quadrant (inner gearbox cover)
    • Gearchange quadrant plungers (outer gearbox cover)
    • Springs for above
    • Guide plate (outer gearbox cover)
    • Oil seals: mainshaft, inner cover, crankshaft, shift spindle o'ring
    • Sundry tab washers, nuts, cotter pins, keys, etc.

End of Season 2014

EOS Mileage: 65,120

September 29, 2014

64,150 miles

Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter

I've taken quite a few rides in September, although probably lower mileage than usual. Haven't experienced any further general general - black-outs?, although I had headlamp and tailight failure at the beginning of a late afternoon ride around Lake Memphremagog.

I turned back from that ride and back at the shop I found a loose terminal on the light switch in the headlight shell.

I've been taking tools to remove tank and hotwire between battery and Pazon.

August 26, 2014

Installed new battery. 63,300 miles.

Purchased through Amazon.

August 21, 2014

Oil change, 63,120 miles (crankcase, filter, primary chain case)

August 19, 2014

Spent several days tracing and diagramming the wiring and cleaning up connections.

Provoked electrical system 'blackouts' several times in the shop and found two things that sometimes make power return:

1) Playing around with the wires on the switch, as I did on the road on 14 August (below), and also one other time, either in the shop or on the road.

2) Grasping the harness where it comes out from the gas tank and crosses the neck and gently tugging forward and upward. This corrected the electrical fault twice.

So probably a strained connection that is open, but makes contact when tension is removed or ruduced. Probably in the headlamp shell.

I no longer think that the ignition switch could be the problem.

I've already looked at looms (about $160 for Bonnie) but I think my best bet would be to make my own since the layout of the components in Bonnie?s electrical system does not match any Triumph factory model (i.e. position of ignition switch and zenner diode).

August 16, 2014

Early in the morning. Still no electrics.

Rigged two jumpers to an idiot light bulb and probed around:

  • Bulb lights at source side of ignition switch
  • Bulb doesn't light on switched side, even though voltmeter says there's 12.6/7

But later, after (?)

Fiddling with wires to switch, wires in shell, and wires on rectifier (or did I notice that the center rectifier wire looks funky after the lights came back on - I think so)

Oh, probably the lights came back on after I also tried to push back the Lucar cover on one of the leads, the one that looks burnt at the top.

Also made and unmade the wiring to the spedo/tach lights (only one working) and the idiot lights (one corroded right in, took it out with pliers).

Anyway, at one point I have lights and ignition. I saddle up with every tool and material I need to cure another electrical outage and prepare to go out the door and it starts raining.

August 15, 2014

Wanting to go for a spin and warm up for oil change.

Bike won't start. No ignition, no lights.

Looking around, find that mechanic Dave didn't connect the ground lead to the zenner diode when he re-did the ground connection.

Reconnected the zenner. No change.

Took various voltage and resistance readings. Measuring from ground to feed side of ignition switch:

  • 12.6/7v in off position, but
  • In on position fell to 0 or a couple volts

Left charger on battery over night.

August 14, 2014

I take a liesurely one hour ride and on top of Nelson Hill I stop to look at the Panorama for a good five minutes.

Comes time to leave. Bike won't start.

Pulled white and white/brown wires off ingnition switch and put (white?) onto the second terminal with brown/white. Bike starts right up.

August 12, 2014

Bike won't start in NBE's parking lot.

Mechanic fixes loose ground, puts wire straight to Pazon (with switch) and I ride home, one-hundred dollars poorer.

Engine runs with the switch on and the lights work with the ignition switch on and the lighting switch turned on.

Mechanic Dave's recommendation for electrical supplies:

http://www.delcity.net/

http://www.britishwiring.com/Ratcheting-Crimping-Tool-for- Terminals-p/pr4.htm

August 8, 2014

Received new ignition switch AND new tumbler.

Installed new switch with OLD tumbler. Everything hunky- dory. Runs great.

Fiddled with timing - retardeding it slightly.

August 5, 2014

Electrical problem. No ignition.

Wired from battery directly to Pazon white and she started right up.

Bypassed the ignition switch (plugged all 3 Lucars into a brass multiple) and she started right up.

Ordered new switch.

July 24, 2014

Having lots of trouble getting carbs adjusted for idle. Idle is erratic, (mostly) very fast, and has gigantic 'dead spot' that kills motor every time if I slowly roll through it.

Motor dies randomly in traffic. Real drag.

Runs fine 'at speed'.

I need to mark my throttle handle 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, etc. to help locate faulty carb component(s):

  • Needles?
  • Blocked idle circuit?
  • Worn slides?

July 10, 2014

Oil change 61,100

Removed points, autoadvance unit, condensers and replaced with Pazon electronic ignition.

June 5, 2014

Beginning of Season 2014

Bike back on the road after a couple of weeks intensive efforts. Lots of issues experienced this spring.

Winter Service & Repairs

  • Pazon electronic ignition, inc. 1 pair 6v coils
  • New brake linings front and back
  • New wheel bearings front and back
  • New rear chain (Tsubaki) High Quality self-lube
  • New rear sprocket (MAP Cycle)
  • New front fork oil seals and o-rings
  • Removed head and cylinder base
  • Replaced worn/chipped tappets
  • Reassembled head/rocker boxes using MAPCycle gaskets and o-rings
  • Rocker box gaskets do NOT have wire in them
  • Rocker spindle o-rings from MAPCycle are different part number - see MP
  • Removed pri chain case, sealed alternator leads using 'Right Stuff'
  • Speedometer restored and set to 60,000 miles
  • Tachometer restored
  • Changed fork oil
  • Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter
  • Changed gearbox oil

May 30, 2014

  • Refill crankcase and new filter
  • Change inside oil line (old one chaffed)
  • Refill gearbox 500cc 85w-90
  • Install chain guard supports (inc PITA bolt - use small cold chisel to wedge fender away from brace on swing arm to make clearance for the nut)
  • Drain primary chain case
  • Install master link on chain (Tsubaki master links as stiff as ever! Used vice grips and hammer and punch)

May 29, 2014

  • Clutch and gas cables
  • head steadies
  • coils
  • drain crankcase, gearbox, oil resevoir

May 27, 2014

Tuesday

  • Back brakes
  • Back tire, chain, chain guard, stoplight switch
  • Carbs
  • Headlight (out of sequence penalty)
  • Handlebars
  • Torque head
  • Rocker boxes
  • Front forks
  • front fender
  • front wheel
  • Front brakes

Winter 2014

End of Season 2013

October 22, 2013

59,518.7 (interval: 1,477 miles)

Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter

October 11, 2013

Found the source of all the mess on the tinwork behind the left hand carb, and also the constant smell of gas I've had for the past 1,000 miles, and the really crappy performance for the last 24 hours:

Float in left hand carb was full of gas. Put in one from the old carbs and the Bonnie's very very happy again.

Also checked the ignition timing and found both cylinders spot on.

October 1, 2013

On trip with Bob B. to White Mountains, the speedo died. Or at least the speed indicator. The odometers seem to be still operational. Tach is also looking pretty sketchy.

September 22, 2013

58,041 miles

Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter

September 19, 2013

L'Amis Denis couldn't get a new rear tire for Bonnie until mid-October so I had them mount an old, less-worn out one from my shop.

After I returned home and re-installed the tire, including alignment, L'Amis Denis called to say their mechanic had left out a bushing. So, back to Lennoxville and another wheel removal and installation. Mechanic kind of acted like it was my fault he left the bushing out.

Disaster. The second time I didn't correctly install clip on master link and chain flew off on Vallieres, ruining the new Reynolds chain and sacking the chain guard.

August 22, 2013

56,700 miles

Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter (interval 1,200 miles)

Shell Rotella T 10W-40 diesel oil in crankcase. $28 US a gallon inc. Vt tax.

August 21, 2013

56,000 miles

Push rod tubes have been leaking more and more, so I bit the bullet and started wrenching.

Removed rocker boxes and head and replaced push rod tube oil seals (except for bottom exhaust o-ring and seal because the wedding band was really tight and that joint didn't seem to be leaking).

I'd used a red high-temp o-ring at top of exhaust and it was totally deteriorated, coming out in little pieces. Other two o- rings on intake tube were flat, but intgral.

All replacement o-rings I used were black ones.

Had trouble tightening domed nuts on rocker spindles because they kept turning, especiall the intake spindle. Finally used contact cement (household goop) between spindle head on drive side and screw of a wood vise - with other end of clamp blocked off rocker box fins with small piece of plywood. This gave just enough friction to tighten the nut sufficiently that it didn't leak.

Re-torqued head bolds after about 6 miles and re-set valve clearance. Drove 82 miles (around Lake Memphermagog) and re- checked bolts, which were ok. All four valves had zero clearance.

Also checked timing - ever so slightly retarded in both cylinders, a litte more on timing side.

When putting carbs back on I used PL's method - slack idle screws right out - adjust cables for slides being all the way down and synchronized. Then set idle with idle screws.

Bike is very responsive and smooth to throttle control and idles very nicely at 600.

August 3, 2013

56,033 miles

Repaired wiring to center lug of selenium rectifier. I recently used a side-by-side two-to-one connector to connect the brown/white and (other) wires to center lug. The rectifier got loose and turned evidently, shorting to the fender. The resulting heat burned my under-the-seat rags and the blue tool- kit pouch. Totally charred. Lucky I didn't have a fire.

Very thorough ignition timing job pays off. Did static timing first. Forgot to advance the autoadvance with screwdriver, but it all worked out ok when I made adjustments using the strobe. Used an old lawn tractor 12v battery as external power source for strobe - timing mark seemed to jump around a little less.

Timing is right on the spot now and Bonnie is quieter with less vibration, and has more power and smoother acceleration.

Adjusted drive chain.

July 23, 2013

55,500 miles

Oil change with filter. (interval 1,223 miles)

Replaced gaiters.

July 10, 2013

54,717.7 miles

Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter

New primary chain adjusted

New fork oil

Reset timing for timing side cylinder (it was retarded). Went really well using my points photo as a guide

June 28, 2013

Oil and filter at 54,277 miles

Beginning of Season 2013

June 3, 2013

53,310 miles

Started first kick.

Overheated on way back from Ayer's Cliff, but after re- adjusting valve clearance everything's been fine.

Bike's much quieter without rattle from loose chain guard. Handles better with new shocks and adjustment of steering head races (loose all last year).

No oil or gas leaks!

Winter Tear-Down 2013

May 22, 2013

  • drive chain
  • primary chain
  • rocker spindles (used)
  • spindle o-rings
  • swing arm bushings
  • shock absorbers

End of Season 2012

October 2012

End of 2012 Season at 53,310 miles

5,460 miles during 2012 season.

October 22, 2012

Oil change . 53,100 miles

October2, 2012

Oil change. 51,800 miles

September 5, 2012

Oil change. 51,040 miles

Found ignition coils loose (again!)

Right here

August 23, 2012

50,300 miles.

New drive chain installed and adjusted.

Changed center stand spring and replaced nuts, bolts, tab washers holding the stand to frame. Replacement bolts don't thread into the threaded holes of center stand the way the originals do, but they seem to do the trick.

The method I finally used to get the new spring on works really well ? no strain! Fold about a 6? section of 1/4" nylon rope and pass the folded end from front to back over the frame member where the spring anchors. Hook the spring over the loop and then pull the spring on from the front with one foot on the drive side footpeg for a brace. After the spring is on, pull the rope out the back way.

Installed new parts for the steering damper.

August 2, 2012

49,400 miles

Oil change.

Pre-Ormstown check-over found about 8 bolts or nuts loose to some degree.

July 12, 2012

48,607 miles

  • Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter
  • All gas lines re-crimped
  • Carb cleaned, float bowl washer replaced

Beginning of Season 2012

July 6, 2012

47,550 miles

Midseason Service & Repairs (ascending chronological order)

  • Top end re-assembled w original order of washers (July 5th)
  • Top end assembly w alternate order of washers on rocker spindle
  • Snapped rocker box bolt removed (Jamie Bruins)
  • Valves lapped lightly (Jamie Bruines)
  • Sandblasting head (end of May)

    Winter Tear-Down 2012

    January 9, 2012

    Slacked off valve adjustments and loosened all head bolts to hand-tight.

    Found bolt missing from forward head-steadies. That's the bolt I found at Crooks carwash just before the end of the season!

    Also found rocker box and head bolts not very tight - perhaps 2 were not much more than hand tight.

    • Change chain
    • Check primary chain tension
    • Done: Replace seals for pushrod tubes
    • Fixed (new o ring) Loose rocker spindles - ?
    • Done Replace headlight lens
    • Tighten forward oil line connections (leaking)
    • Grease swing arm (5k are up)
    • Change handlebars?

    January 8, 2012

    Removed gas tank, carbs, head steadies.

    End of Season 2011

    47,550 miles end of season.

    September 28, 2011

    47,550 miles

    Oil change: crankcase and primary chain case.

    Replaced cracked headlight lense with new Lucas ($55).

    August 27, 2011

    46,700 miles

    Oil change: crankcase and primary chain case.

    August 18, 2011

    Been hearing a noise over the past week - kind of a rattle, or sound of a wind-up clock's spring suddenly releasing. Hearing this mostly at a stop at idle as rev's decrease.

    This morning I tore down the transmission completely, removing the engine and clutch sprockets. Found nothing loose except for the primary chain being quite slack.

    Those econo chains from BSC really stretch a lot!!

    Put everything back together (3 1/2 hours to tear down tranny and re-assemble) and put more tension on the clutch springs.

    Went out for a two-hour road test - the noise seems to be gone and the clutch no longer is slipping - what a difference in acceleration!

    I did notice that the left-hand ends of the rocker spindle's are moving around a bit. Checked the dome nuts at the other end and they seem quite tight. Maybe this is normal, I'm not sure. Or maybe I have too little clearance for the valves? Doesn't seem so though.

    August 10, 2011

    46,200 miles

    New spark plugs - Autolite N3 equivelent (but copper)

    Checked points - left them alone

    Re-set timing (right cylinder was out a little)

    Valve adjustment using this method:

    • Slack off adjusters
    • Insert feeler gauge
    • Tighten adjusters until feeler gauge entrained
    • Loosen adjustors slightly to release feeler gauge
    • Remove feeler gauge, check slack by moving rockers up and down with fingers
    • Back adjustors off slightly and tighen fixing nut
    • Check slack with fingers for same as two steps back

    July 26, 2011

    Oil change: 45,315 miles

    • Crankcase and filter
    • Primary chain case

    July 5, 2011

    Oil change: 45,075 miles

    • Crankcase and filter
    • Primary chain case
    • Gearbox (5,000 miles exactly since previous)

    June 22, 2011

    Installed new rear tire: 44,730 miles

    June 8, 2011

    44,250 miles

    Changed crankcase/primary oil/filter

    Clutch slipping less since I changed oil and used 30W non-D and less (~300 ml)

    June 5, 2011

    Installed replacement oil filter head - no leak!

    May 26, 2011

    Beginning of season issues:

    • New oil filter head leaking
    • Clutch is slipping

    Ordered new front and rear tires today.

    Start of Season 2011

    April 2011

    Start of season odometer reading: 43,3841 miles

    Winter Tear-Down 2011

    Installed Norton oil filter head

    Replaced:

    • Drive chain
    • Primary chain
    • Gaitors

    End of Season 2010

    September 25, 2010

    42,530 miles odometer reading.

    Installed new clutch friction plates. No more slipping clutch.

    Also, checked cylinder compression:
    Cylinder Opposite plug in Opposite plug out
    Left 145 psi 150
    Right 120 psi 150

    September 21, 2010

    42,497 miles

    Changed crankcase/primary oil (485 mile interval)

    September 1, 2010

    42,015 miles

    Changed crankcase/primary oil (1,236 mile interval)

    July 23, 2010

    40,779 miles

    Went through a period of backfiring and missing after initially running quite well. Eventually, after fretting over valves, timing, and carb, I put the battery back in after having replaced it with a capacitor. Bike instantly begain running normally again with the battery in the circuit.

    Bike definitely has more power than before the rebuild.

    Had used a bit of oil - about a quart in 500 miles. And the clutch has been slipping occaisionally on two of my last three outings.

    Beginning of Season 2010

    July 4, 2010

    Bonnie back on the road

    40,397 miles

    Winter Tear-Down 2010

    June 9, 2010

    Retrieved motor from Costa Zarifi.

    CZ changed (40,397 miles)

    • crankshaft bearings
    • high gear bearing
    • mainshaft bearing
    • layshaft bearing, inner
    • layshaft bearing, inner cover of gearbox cover
    • pistons
    • rods polished

    Season 2009 Cancelled

    Winter Tear-Down 2008

    January 6, 2008

    Issues

    • Rear brake not concentric
    • Rear sprocket broken bolt

    Valve job by Frank Holmes

    • valves
    • valve guides
    • valve springs

    End of Season 2007

    Mileage, 2007
    Event Speedo Reading
    Beginning of 2006 season (original speedo) 28675
    Original speedo out of service 31493
    2006 Subtotal (old speedo) 2818
    End 2006 season (new speedo) 2550.1
    2006 Subtotal (new speedo) 2550.1
    2006 Grand Total 5368.1

    November 14, 2007

    Installed new speedo cable but the speedo still doesn't work. Speedo works with electric drill, cable has no "flitches" in it, but output from cable from gearbox is pulsating. Guess I need a new gearbox.

    October 5, 2007

    Oil change (crankcase, chaincase), new rear tire, new chain (Reynolds), and new sprocket.

    Occaision for another new chain being that I cut the first one a link too short.

    July 30, 2007

    37,079 miles

    Changed crankcase/primary oil (cleaned sump filter only)

    Checked points - gaps and timing are right on.

    Adjusted idle screws on carbs.

    New chain (Reynolds) put into service. Aligned rear tire (twice with new chain, once with old).

    Melted down ground leads by shorting out battery (-) with oil dipstick. I should turn battery around so terminals are further away. Put insulated booties on?

    Removed front brake lever assembly (from Waldridge I'm pretty sure) due to cracked and broken screw mounting. Replaced with - original? Replacement is upside down (cable inserts into lever from bottom and not top).

    July 15, 2007

    36,630 miles

    Replaced front wheel bearings.

    June 23, 2007

    Changed crankcase/primary oil (no filters cleaned)

    Lubed points fluffs and cables.

    May 28, 2007

    34,979.2 miles

    Changed crankcase/primary oil (cleaned sump filter)

    May 25, 2007

    Lost left muffler returning from East Hereford.

    May 10, 2007

    Lower mounting bracket on chain guard broke weld to chain guard. Brazed by welder in Magog.

    May 03, 2007

    Left front mounting stud on gas tank broke off. Repaired by Atelier des Profs with their brand of liquid steel.

    Beginning of Season 2007

    March 22, 2007

    33,750 new miles (18,000 miles total).

    Maiden voyage to Ayer's Cliff and then around lake Memphremagog. Sixty-eight miles in all. Issues:

    • Vibrations
    • DS gas tank mounting stud loose

    Winter Tear-Down 2007

    March 20, 2007

    Front forks

    Forks got new seals, o-rings, and bearings. They also got a used DS lower fork leg due to stripped threads on original unit. Replacement obtained from Don Hutchinson had a different type of drain plug (elongated tip - for sediment?) and also had threads in the mounting lug for the rear front fender stay. I also ordered a new dust cover but it was not a good match with the other original so I put back the original one. I did note that the new dust cover threaded on quite snugly while the old one threaded on fairly loosely until the last little bit.

    When I took apart the forks I found that the circlip had come off of the shuttle valve on both sides. One of the check valves is a bit beat up but I put it back in because replacement was not immediately available.

    Replacements

    • Seat
    • Handlebars (low profile "W")
    • Exhaust pipes
    • Mufflers
    • Brake switch nuts/bolts

    Cables

    • New (short) throttle cables
    • New front brake cable

    Things done/not done

    • Oil pressure blank Blanking plug (Waldridge) installed
    • Repair taillight connection New bullet crimped to lead
    • Get a new fuse lead Reused part of old fuse holder
    • Have new rear tire installed New tire installed
    • Move ground lead from instrument deck Grounded beneath deck with short fine-thread bolt
    • Restrain harness inside headlamp shell Not done
    • Replace corroded spark plug leads Replaced
    • Check out primary chain case oil level plug Is something stripped? Not sure.
    • Replace points Replaced DS cylinder points (forward set) but not TS
    • Adjust points and timing
    • Valve clearance Adjusted
    • Tops for carbs with no choke holes Not yet, still epoxy
    • Reassemble carbs without spacers for cables Done, no spacers.

    January 28, 2007

    Have stripped Bonnie down to engine in frame, fenders, front end, front tire, oil bottle.

    Issues/things to do:

    • Oil pressure blank?
    • Repair taillight connection
    • Get a new fuse lead
    • Have new rear tire installed
    • Move ground lead from instrument deck to headlight shell bolt?
    • Restrain harness inside headlamp shell
    • Replace spark plug leads (left-hand one is completely corroded)
    • Check out primary chain case oil drain
    • Replace points
    • Adjust points and timing and valve clearance
    • Tops for carbs with no choke holes
    • Reassemble carbs without the spacer for the cables

    End of Season 2006

    December 25, 2006

    Event Speedo Reading
    Beginning of 2006 season (original speedo) 28675
    Original speedo out of service 31493
    2006 Subtotal (old speedo) 2818
    End 2006 season (new speedo) 2550.1
    2006 Subtotal (new speedo) 2550.1
    2006 Grand Total 5368.1

    November 24, 2006

    33,629 miles

    (interval 929 miles)

    Crankcase: Quick Change (filters not removed, sump not drained)

    October 14, 2006

    32,700 miles

    Changed crankcase/primary oil

    September 16, 2006

    31,884 miles

    Rear tire flat.

    Installed new K-70 tire and tube (D'eauville)

    September 10, 2006

    31,700 miles (new speedo)

    Changed crankcase/primary oil

    Cleaned and lubed chain

    Also, installed new cables for carbs and clutch and adjusted timing and idle. Bike is running like new!

    September 7, 2006

    Replace speedometer with a rebuilt from Frank. Old speedometer stopped at 31, 493 miles (see table above).

    September 1, 2006

    Bonnie popped out of 4th gear yesterday and left me in neutral with no gear changing action from the foot shift (no clicks, just up and down).

    Coasted back to Dave's driveway where foot shift still didn't work, but then it started working about five minutes later. Went on to ride for several hours with no problems.

    I was cranking pretty hard going up the hill at 70 when she popped out.

    August 25, 2006

    31,003

    Changed crankcase/primary oil

    Before leaving on trip down to NH to meet Richard Swartwout

    Stopped at Frank Holmes Brit Bike Barn, former home of Bonnie. Frank was effusive in praise of the bike. When he heard about the top end job and subsequent oil burning he ran into the shop and came out with spark plug wrench and compression test in hand.

    Both cylinders measured between 165-170 after 5 or 6 kicks.

    After the rebuilt they measured around 135, but I didn't hold the throttle wide upen the way Frank said to.

    August 12, 2006

    After a spate of headlamp bulbs breaking I solved the problem by putting a small dab of grease on both contacts of the last bulb I put in. The contact assembly twists on quite stiffly and evidently without the grease it had been stressing the bulbs base with respect to the glass, resulting in breakage in quick time.

    July 30, 2006

    Replaced exhaust pipes after striking rock in the wake of a road grader.

    I asked for 'skinny' pipes this time instead of the 'fat' pipes I got last time from Don Hutchinson. The first set had a bad bend in the right-hand side pipe and I had to return them for a second pair.

    I'm not totally happy with this set either - they go on but I think the angles between the pipes and the jugs are not completely right - I have a hard time sealing the exhaust gasses in at that joint.

    Beginning of Season 2006

    28,675 miles.

    Winter Tear-Down 2006

    March 15, 2006

    Completing winter 2005/2006 maintenance at 28,675 miles

    Compression after rebuild: 135/135.

    Top end rebuild, including:

    • Valves (Black Diamond)
    • Springs
    • Rings
    • 1 valve guide
    • 1 cam follower tappet

    Wheels

    • Front wheel bearings removed, cleaned, repacked and reinstalled
    • Rear wheel bearings replaced.

    Gas tank

    • Repaired
    • Painted

    Oil tank

    • Repaired
    • Painted

    Frame and most brackets and tin

    • Powdercoated

    Fasteners

    • Updated

    Wiring

    • New wiring harness (See wiring notes)

    Lubrication

    Greased:

    • Swing arm
    • Front and rear wheel bearings
    • Steering head bearings
    • Brake pedal
    • Brake cam bolts

    Pre-rebuild top-end spec's (Patrick Degens') at 28,675 miles:

    Results:

    Part:

    Measured Specs Action taken
    Valve stems inlet .3082 & .3082 .3095-.3100" Changed
    Valve stems exh .3075 & .3097 .3090-.3095" Changed
    Valve guides inlet .3129 &.3132 .3127-.3137 Kept
    Valve guides exh .3129 & .3128 .3127-.3137 Kept
    Tappets inlet .3100 & .3110 .3110-.3115 Changed 1
    Tappets exh .3110 & .3115 .3110-.3115 Kept
    Piston clearance .0062 & .0062 .0046-.0061 Kept
    Rings (all ) .018 to .025" .010-.014" Gap Changed
    Cylinder bore (+.020) 2.8152 & 2.8151" 2.8148-2.8153 No rebore

    Note: the following part numbers reflect the sealing condition found from '70 until '73, to which Bonnie was evidently upgraded previously.
    Part Number Part Description
    E-7310 bottom pushrod tower sealing o'ring
    E1-1283 top pushrod tower sealing o'ring
    E-4752 sealing ring (white, square-edged ring)
    E1-1707 sleeve (aka wedding band!)
    E1-2575 correct push rod tower number

    January 14, 2006

    Picked up powder coated frame, brackets, and tin.

    End of Season 2005

    December 8, 2005

    28,675 miles

    Last ride on 1 December.

    Tearing bike down for winter maintenance.

    September 23, 2005

    Received replacement left-hand carb and it works just fine.

    Now that both carbs will tickle, Bonnie starts right up on two cylinders again.

    September 8, 2005

    Installed new Amal concentrics.

    A few issues: 1) left carb won't tickle (just like old right carb) and 2) can't properly thread air cleaner onto the left carb.

    Idle screws are right out giving no idle unless throttle is held open at the twist-grip - however, it started on about the third or fourth kick and on a short test run down the hill, and a way past the Stanstead county line it ran very well:

    No coughing and missing as before and pinging has subsided greatly (gone except under stress?). The formely jerky low and mid-range (2,000-3200rpm) throttle response is now very smooth. I?ve never been able to come up the hill as slowly and negociate the first corner with no engine ping.

    Top end? Had no helmet on and only took her up to just under 70 on the winding turns of gravel road. It did seem to have a bit of a dead spot up there, but hard to tell.

    August

    Replaced front stay. New one broke in less than two hundred miles.

    May 7, 2005

    23,750 miles

    • Lubed chain (700 mile interval)
    • Removed and cleaned left and right carbs.
    • Checked timing with new strobe - bang-on.
    • As per list responses, adjusted idle air screws to eliminate popping on runoff.

    Beginning of Season 2005

    April 14, 2005

    23,045 miles

    Winter Tear-Down 2005

    Began readying Bonnie just about a week ago. Had a new rear tire mounted and replaced the wheel with lubed chain.

    Then I checked the valves - exhaust seemed ok, but the inlet valves seemed to have no clearance at all so I readjusted them.

    Reassembled everything and gave her a kick outside - started right up on the first kick, but only on the left-hand cylinder.

    Spent four days working on the electrics because the right- hand cylinder's spark looked weak to me - ordered new coils from Moto Montreal and they arrived next day by express mail but they were the wrong ones so I drove to Montreal and exchanged them.

    After reassembling with new coils she was still hitting on only one cylinder so I pinged the BritIron mailing list. Pete Chartrand was first to respond and he was right on when he said to check the two small holes in the needle jet. Passed a slender wire through them, reassembled once again and Bonnie roared to life on both cylinders on the first kick.

    Took a short spin down to AC and back and then took a ride to Magog today after first going to Crook's car wash in the village. It was about 5 degrees C but I had on two pairs of pants and my riding jacket with winter liner so I was very comfy.

    End of Season 2004

    October 29, 2004

    23,045 miles

    Changed crankcase/primary oil (1,200 mile interval)

    Cleaned and lubed drive chain(530 mile interval).

    October 26, 2004

    22,980 miles

    Dip switch died this week - shorts out battery and blows fuse on high beam.

    October 10, 2004

    22,516 miles

    Chain cleaned and lubed

    New chain's master link came off very easily using a small drift to punch the connecting link out of the cover piece. Used the needlenose vicegrips to put the cover piece back on far enough when replacing and I think it went a bit easer than the first time, but still very tiight.

    While checking tire alignment after replacing chain I noticed that the rear tire is practically finished - just a tad better than when I replaced it on July 23 at 21,100. That gives me 1,400 miles on the tire - can the gravel be that hard on tires? I think something?s wrong here. I?m estimating that the last tire (put on by Frank) lasted in the vicintiy of 7,000 miles.

    Also noticed yesterday that all Bonnie?s lighting was out. Thought it?d be a connection on the lighting switch but instead it was the feed to the lighting switch from the ignition (brown/white wire on ingition switch connection the farthest forward).

    September 25, 2004

    21,845 miles

    Changed crankcase/primary oil (1,259 mile interval - oil was quite dirty)

    • Cleaned and lubed drive chain.
    • Cleaned air filters in kero and blew them out.
    • Replaced oil line clamp on oil bottle connection with the filter - old one stripped out when I replaced it - I have to learn not to over-tighten these.
    • Installed the new (Tsubaki) chain with a new masterlink - very tight master link cover plate - as Chris at Moto Montreal showed me I used vice grips and an old link cover plate to squeeze the new one together far enough to get the clip on - and it was quite a job at that. Will have use a drift to get the master link off the next time I maintain the chain.
    • Replaced lighting switch in headlight because the old one was getting very tempramental about making contacts.
    • Replaced headlight lamp due to burned out low-beam filament.
    • Ready for Fall riding!!

    September 4, 2004

    21,108 miles: chain cleaning and lube.

    September 2, 2004

    Replaced metal cover on drive side which I lost several days earlier on a ride around the west side of Lake Memphremagog in Vermont.

    August 13, 2004

    20,568 miles

    Changed crankcase/primary oil (833 mile interval)

    Cleaned and lubed drive chain.

    August 10, 2004

    Adjusted the ignition timing using a stroboscope. Hard to see but then I marked it with black magic marker and waited until dark (bike was outside).

    Also managed to turn both headers yellow (even some purple on the drive side) - 2,000 rpm while stationary is enough to overheat the bike.

    Once I could see the timing mark under the strobe it only took four or five seconds to check a setting. I think trial and error is best because my arms aren't eight feet long. It would be good to note adjustments in terms of advance and retard for future reference.

    July 23, 2004

    20,100 miles

    New rear tire and tube.

    July 14, 2004

    19,911 miles.

    Cleaned and lubed chain

    July 12, 2004

    19,825 miles

    Changed crankcase/primary oil (1,060 miles interval).

    Also installed new oil hoses between oil tank and oil pump junction block. New hose is softer, more pliable than the old. New clamps seem to tighten it right down and there is no longer any leakage from the oil pump side connections where there definitely was before. There still, however, seems to be some oil leaking from somewhere.

    July 6, 2004

    Since 'completing' restoration reassembly I have lost, or nearly lost:

    • Front fork cap bolts (had to come home hand-tightening the remaining one)
    • Rear axel nuts
    • GearshiftK
    • Kickstarter
    • Rear shocks (tops and bottoms both sides nuts nearly off the bolts)
    • Engine mounts
    • Front fork pinch bolts
    • Yoke pinch bolt

    June 14, 2004

    Lost a chain in Rock Island. Evidently I didn't snap on the master link clip after replacing fresh chain. Had none to fit at home, got towed home by Dodge dealer. Picked up new link next day at Moto Montreal.

    June 11, 2004

    19,400 miles

    lubed chain (medium chain bar oil overnight and drain).

    Beginning of Season 2004

    May 26, 2004

    18,765 miles

    First ride of the season.

    Winter Tear-Down 2004

    Restoration reassembly completed (see separate document).

    Changed crankcase/primary oil

    Changed gearbox oil

    End of Season 2003

    November 25, 2003

    Mileage: 18,764.

    Last ride of the season.

    October 12, 2003

    18, 200 miles.

    Changed crankcase/primary oil (inc. filters)

    Failed to tighten primary oil level screw, evidently, and lost it on first 30-mile ride. Doesn't seem to be any damage to chains or clutch, though. Found a screw with thread close enough (might be a tad loose in the thread) for a temporary replacement.

    Aligned rear wheel using a straight-edge (1 x 4 pine) but was way off. As soon as I rode (same ride as above), I could feel the bike tracking to the left and acting weird. Re-aligned using instead a piece of mason line - much better!

    September 26, 2003

    Went to Moto Montreal. Talked with Chris. New concentric carbs are $200 apiece. A damper would run about $60 in parts.

    Picked up headlight and speedo bulbs (bayonets) as well as a set of new footpeg rubbers.

    August 30 , 2003

    Oil change 17,150 miles. Includes primary chain case and crankase. Washed all filters in kerosene.

    Adjusted clutch - just right now at a little under a half turn out from plate lift. Doesn't seem to be slipping now, but gear changing is smoother. Noticed today that going very slow and easy from neutral to first at a standstill seems to go quite easily.

    August 29, 2003

    Thought I had tracked down the dead RH cylinder problem to a bad condenser (points for RH side seemed to be arching - a faulty condenser according to Haynes), but after replacing both condensers ($36 plus tax from Moto Montreal) the problem persisted.

    I went over everything again - hooked up the ignition switch correctly, etc. Finally switched plug wires and watched the problem move from Right to Left cylinder as I turned over the engine with plugs out and grounded, watching for spark.

    Got two new wires made up by Magog Auto Elentrics (Sherbrooke street) and Bonnie started right up on two cylinders.

    Meanwhile I have removed the ugly bracket that held the horn and the condensers and mounted the condensers directly to the frame there instead of to the bracket. Of course I also removed the horn relay and all the extra baggage wiring.

    Starting to look a bit cleaner.

    Couldn't go for a ride afterwards due to rain, so I cleaned the air filters instead.

    August 27, 2003

    Well, I may have fixed the intermittant ignition switch problem, but now the right-hand cylinder is completely missing at low revs. I went out twice since cleaning up the switch corrosion and the problem gradually got worse and worse to the point that the r-hand cylinder hardly fires at all until rpm's are way up and even there it bogs.

    Yesterday I could see that the spark on that cylinder is very weak. I cleaned the plugs and points and checked all gaps - .020 plugs, .015 points (they were both very tight, plugs were a nice light chocolate brown).

    I also checked the ignition switch - I think it's connected correctly, but I'm not 100 percent sure.

    I pulled off the tank again today and looked at all the coil connections that I re-did the other day before discovering the corroded ignition switch. Everything looks ok.

    Could be capacitor or coil? Wire? The spark was weak from plug end of plug wire to ground with the bike running (on left- hand cylinder).

    Tomorrow I need to check origins of the brown/white and white/brown wires to ignition switch with VOM to see if the ignition switch is truly hooked up properly:

    I'd swear that before I played with the ignition switch the first time (below), the lights would not come on until the ignition switch was turned on, whereas now the lights will remain on after the igntion switch is turned off.

    August 24, 2003

    Bike was stalling two nights ago when LA and I went for a ride to Magog and North Hatly and today it died completely when I got to the bottom of our hill.

    I found the problem - bad contacts (corrosion) on the ignition switch. Cleaned them up and its working fine - this should also fix the anomly that I noticed when I drove to Sherbrook the first time this summer- bike stalling when making a left-turn from a light. This was because turning the front wheel to the left moved the big plastic-covered part of the wiring harness that goes up to the headlamp shell and that was what was making the ignition switch contact intermittant.

    August 1, 2003

    16,500 miles

    Changed crankcase/primary oil

    Tried adjusting the clutch again - to about 2/3 of a turn, clutch still drags.

    21 July, 2003

    Clutch was slipping. Manual says to back 1 turn off of where plate lifts, bike was adjusted right to where the plate lifts. I backed it off one turn and the clutch is now dragging a bit too much - gear changes are a bit chattery.

    Start my Bonnie log

    June 28, 2003

    15, 768 miles.

    End previous owner log

    May 23, 2003

    (Last entry by Frank)

    New fork seals and gators.

    August 12, 2002

    Retorqued head, set valves, changed gear oil.

    August 10, 2002

    190cc 30w oil in front forks.

    August 8, 2002

    New front tire and new front fork gator.

    Deglazed front brake drum.

    July 8, 2002

    New 20" (or 15 thousandths inche) over pistons and new valve guides.

    June 23, 2002

    New K70 rear tire.

    New rear brake shoes.

    New center stand spring.

    Adjusted primary chain.

    June 22, 2002

    (Start for Frank)

    Cleaning.

    Disassemble carbs, replace needle jets, check floats, clean airways.

    No sign of oil leakage past guides.

    # 3 slides

    # 190 mains

    Rear speedometer drive: [3 or B]65330/168

    Rotor: 15/12 =1.25-1

    Beginning of log: T120R Engine & Frame NC00125

    Go Top